Tag Archives: georgia

An Exciting End via Gombori – Dirt Roads and a Petrol Scare

It was day 8 – the last day of our Georgia trip and we had to drive back to Tbilisi. Our hotel had been kind enough to pack breakfast for us and we started early at 6 am. We had to return our car before 9 am and take our next car to Armenia by 10 am.

We had to drive over the Gombori pass to get to Tbilisi – both our hotel and driver from the previous day had told us that the road was really bad due to renovation happening there. We hoped it would not be closed. We passed by some petrol pumps but decided to skip them for now. Our car’s fuel indicator showed that we were good for at least 100 km and our route was around 92 km long – it should make the cut. In any case, we would be over the mountain pass soon and we could refill petrol.

The roads were empty at this time of the day. We left behind the villages and entered the dense forests and mountain roads. Here also, we saw sections of the road which were completely washed away and had to drive with caution. We started wondering if the Georgian definition of a “bad road” meant a road with some potholes – in that case, we had nothing to worry about. 

Soon enough, the road ended and became a dirt track. We couldn’t drive faster than 15-20 kmph as we rolled over the mud and negotiated the sharp turns along the cliffs. Gombori pass was brutal.

That’s when I noticed the fuel indicator – it was depleting fast. The original indicator showed the distance based on the speed at that time – we were cruising at 70-80 kmph without much use of the accelerator or brakes. But the current road was a mileage killer. And it continued for another 20 kms even past the town of Gombori!

All my hours of driving in Bangalore traffic came in handy now. I used to set the “live mileage” option on the dashboard and keep looking at how it changed when I hit the accelerator and brakes. The trick was to minimize acceleration to maximize mileage. It also meant I had to minimize braking – otherwise I would need to use the accelerator more. Bottomline – I had to drive at a steady speed using gravity as much as possible. Since we were on a downhill slope, it helped.

The mountains were almost done but there was no sign of a petrol pump. I continued my fuel-saving driving style for almost 40 kms more until we hit the main highway. Finally, after what seemed like an eternity, we got to a petrol pump! Thankfully, I hadn’t told anyone else about this predicament we were in – driving through that horrible road was bad enough. I didn’t want anyone worrying about getting stuck on the remote mountain pass with no help nearby.

It was smooth sailing from there till we reached Tbilisi. If you have been reading our earlier blogs, you would know that we were worried about the parking fine which the car owner had informed us about. We had tried checking the parking systems in Telavi and with some locals also but found that there were no fines outstanding on our car. He only charged us the cleaning fee and didn’t mention anything about the fine – happily taking back the car and asking us to leave him a good rating. All’s well that ends well, I guess!

Our next journey was a road trip to cross the border into Armenia. We had found out the previous day that Armenia was witnessing its worst floods in over a decade and the northern part was most affected. The highway that we were supposed to take to enter the country had been entirely washed away in the landslides and floods. Our driver had told us that he knew an alternate route through the mountains and we kept our fingers crossed that we would reach our next destination safely.

Blogs on Armenia coming soon!

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A deep-dive into the Georgian Wine Culture

In the last blog, we covered the romantic towns of Sighnaghi and Telavi in the wine region of Georgia. We were traveling to Kvareli with our driver for the day, Rezo. It was Georgian wine day!

Rezo kept explaining about the region as he drove – how Telavi and Alazani valley lies between the Caucasus and the Gombori range, about the history of grapes, Georgian wine and a lot more. Here’s a quick run-through for you.

Birthplace of wine

Georgia is widely considered to be the birthplace of wine in the world. Even the status of “Mother of Georgia” that we saw in Tbilisi was holding a cup of wine in her hand. Remains of a clay qvevri – the traditional pot used for making grapes and fossilized grape seeds were found in this region which have been dated back to 8000 years ago. Yes, you read that right – EIGHT THOUSAND! The amazing part is that the traditional method of winemaking in qvevris is still practiced to this date.

Over 520 varieties of grapes call the Alazani valley their home. The unique climate of the region housed between the Caucasian mountain ranges along with the extremely fertile soil on the banks of the river make the perfect combination for grapes to flourish. The harvest season is between September-October and almost everyone we met told us to come back again to enjoy the grapes and the harvest related activities. 

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The Romantic Towns of Sighnaghi and Telavi

Georgia is mostly a mountainous country with the Caucasus mountains running along the entire length of the country and the rest of it merging with the Armenian highlands. One of the vast stretches of plain lands lies to the east – the Alazani valley, home to the famous Georgian wines! That’s where we are going in this blog. We’ll learn more about grapes and wine as we tour vineyards and the beautiful towns of Sighnaghi and Telavi in the Kakheti region of Georgia.

It was Day 6 of the trip and we started our day at Stepantsminda. I opened the curtains to see the Gergeti church and Kazbek mountain one more time before packing our bags. We said goodbye to this beautiful mountain town in Kazbegi and started our drive to Telavi – the main city of the Kakheti region.

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Discovering Kazbegi: A Travel Guide to Georgia’s Northern Mountain Escape

We’re on Day 4 of the trip. We just arrived at Stepantsminda in the northern part of Georgia (close to the Georgia-Russia border). Our stay for the next 2 nights was at the Mountain House Kazbegi, a beautiful property with a view of Mt. Kazbek and the Gergeti church standing in front of it. Wherever you stay in Stepantsminda, try to get a room with a view of the mountain – trust me, that will enhance your experience multifold!

Travel hack (almost)

It was around 5pm and we decided to go for an early dinner. It was drizzling and there was a light breeze – so we couldn’t walk. We headed to the Rooms Hotel Kazbegi – the most luxurious and expensive hotel in the city. This is a nice travel hack which we’ve used before. Even if you don’t stay in the best hotel (to save costs), you can always go to the restaurant there for lunch or dinner and still experience the place.

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The Georgian Military Highway – a Scenic Road Trip

Towards the north of Georgia lie the Caucasus mountains and on their other side is Russia. Georgia and Russia have an open border – which means, Georgians don’t need a visa to cross over and the same is true for the Russians. While we didn’t have any plans to cross over, our next leg was a Georgian road trip to beautiful mountainous border district of Kazbegi.

If you haven’t yet read the previous part, you can find the links at the bottom of this blog. Let’s get started!

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Celebrating Independence Day in Tbilisi

It was afternoon on Day 2 and we stepped out for lunch. We were on our way to the Independence Day celebrations.

First, we stopped at Pasanauri restaurant and had some authentic Georgian food – Khinkhali (soupy dumplings), Khachapuri (cheese filled bread – think of a better version of pizza) of two types – Adjarian and Imeretian and kebabs stuffed with the local sulguni cheese. I’ll publish a guide on the different varieties of khachapuri in the next blog.

This wasn’t our first time eating Georgian food though – we had been to a Georgian restaurant in our last visit to Almaty and loved it. Our table was right next to the barbecue area where the chef was making the kebabs. Parth enjoyed watching him rotate the kebabs on the fire. 

Next stop – Liberty Square (also referred to as Freedom Square). We couldn’t really see the square when we had arrived here the previous night. In the center, was a monument with St George slaying a dragon on top of it. The square was surrounded by the City Assembly and some prominent hotels.

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A Rainy 2 AM Arrival in Georgia

Our trip to the Caucasus started in Georgia. Since we’ve already covered the brief history, geography and plan of the trip in our previous blog, we’ll get right into the trip of how we travelled and our arrival in Georgia.

There were 6 of us this time – Nam, Parth, me and our friends who also had a 2.5 year old toddler. We had done a couple of trips in our pre-parent days and this was our first one together with our toddlers. We were excited and terrified at the same time.

Flight and immigration

We started from Bangalore at 10 AM and took a domestic flight (Indigo) to Delhi. There was a terminal change at Delhi (we didn’t have to lug around our bags as it was a direct check-in till Tbilisi) and we boarded our Indigo flight to Tbilisi at 8:30 PM. It was really convenient to have such low cost options to travel internationally. Thanks to the Diner’s Club credit cards, we could have our meals of the day in the lounges at both airports.

It was a smooth flight to Tbilisi and we landed at 12:10 AM local time (1:40 AM India time). The immigration was the fastest we’ve ever had, it took hardly 5 minutes and the officers were really nice  – this was in complete contrast to all the horror stories we’d heard of deportation of Indians from Georgia. So, a really good start to the trip!

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